I remember 1976 winter that a team of Corean Alpine Club members,
Jae Geun, Dong Ok Yu, and Seung Mo Shin climbed a highest peak
at Dinosaurus ridge at Mt. Seorak, Korea. It took 3 days in cold
and windy condition, Seung had to lead the climb with down jacket
and heavy leather boots. Too cold, so he has to wore 2 pairs of cotton
gloves. Seung used yosemite hauling method to haul gears over the
ceiling from small ledge. As well he banged angle piton and wooden
wedge in the crack and frozen flared crack with soil.He could fix rope
for the first day climb and all the members get back to camp where it
was pitched on top of narrow col from Seorak gorge. The season
was too cold all 14 members to train harsh and steep, frozen terrain near
1275 peak or Nahanbong. To the prominent peak, ferocious wind
battered, so everyday temperature was minus 30 degree in celcius
consecutively. Next day afternoon Seung reached top of thee cliff
at close to dusk. You and Kim jumared up cleaning the gears from
the cliff. Three had to drop iron gears at the end of rope and dropped
from the ridge and figured out roughly about rappel length.
The team get back to camp late at night. Next day the team had to get
back to ridge again retrieved gears and ropes from the rappel point.
They reached Biseondae in the afternoon. Seung and You punched a
hole at frozen ice creek and dipped their head into it. Right away, their
hair turn into iced pin like scissor hand man. They could join to main
party at Seorak dong.
The route on the highest peak in the picture is on right hand side precipe with continuous system.
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