Approach to Alpamayo high camp,

The moraine camp was via very steep terrain of loose rocks, rubbles. It was covered with wet mud, snow and rough sand.  Some sections required 5.6 climbs without any means of protection with backpack and hiking poles in hands.

 

Compare climbing posture with local guide in front and two following climbers from U.S.

  







From left, Jorge,guide and aspirant guide. Seating from left, Sang Park and Sang Han.

 





Jorge, guide, Han Sang and Sang Park reaching at 5,400 meter high camp.

Crowded high camp.  From here, parties assault Alpamayo and Quitaraj summit.

 Camp staffs for summit bid.
  

Coiling of ropes.  Bundles of 500 meter will be used for Claude Kogan's French route,

Peruvian Andes, Cordillera Blanca Expedition,Alpamayo

Alpamayo approach from Huarez,Peru.

Cordillera Blanca

 



 View to Huscaran,

 Rock monument at Youngay Huscaran Disaster Monumental Park

Hual Cayan camp, 3,230 meter

 Rupino plant

 Lunch at Alpamayo trail

Water conduit

 Laguna with Santa Cruz peak group

Huish Cash camp,4,320 meter

 North West side of Alpamayo.

 Laguna near NW face, Alpamayo.

 Basecamp with backdrop of Centro Santa Cruz

 Scaling very steep moraine to the Moraine Camp

 5.5. crag on moraine trail

 Park,Han and high porter

 Santa Cruz group,

 Alpamayo NW side

 Santa Cruz group from high on moraine trail

Snow technique prctices at the Ashokan High Point, Catskill





The day was gorgeous sunny Catskill when we, New York Korean Alpine Club members left New

Jersey.  The team terminated official schedule for ice climbing. Most of the time, they spent a few

weeks at Kaaterskill creek or Black Chasm.   The club set up plans to climb Alpamayo and Huayhuash trekking in Peruvian Andes.  Last year the team reached the top of Chopicalqui peak

that is sister peak of Huascaran.  The ascent was recorded as 1st ascent of Korean mountaineers.

The club haven't practiced how to manage to climb snow slopes or icy terrain at high altitude,

even at the White Mountain,NH. So the day was perfect timing for everyone to experience how to

step on snow slope. Most of them only relying on hiking poles all the time. So they needed to horn

using ice axe.

Seungmo Shin mentioned easy-zig-zag step that is originated from the French Alps. Shin was not

using crampon, instead he wore long ankled ski boot. The 1st one thing he emphasized was to

plunge ice axe, vertical on whatever snowy  slope. As well he showed piolet ramasse position for

steep terrain, relatively lowering body posture, grabbing pick area of the ice axe, while other

hand lifting slightly mid part of shaft of ice axe.  He was asked to show self arrest posture as one

slip off from the slope.  Lastly he showed scaling knee deep snowy terrain, plunging ice axe to

hilt of ice axe, using body weight, then with kick step, he showed demo.   

Mr. Sang Yoon Park who is former president of the club introduced him as the 1st instructor for

Kolon Climbing School in Korea since 1985.   The day was perfect.